The hardest button to button
Shirts with detailed cuffs, collars, clasps, and lots of history
They say we must work with what we have, and what I have is a flat chest and a lot of button-up shirts. Most of the time I am grateful for this lack of development. Sometimes, I feel all out of proportion and think a bigger cup size would help my shoulders look less broad or distract from my moon face. Mostly, I am grateful to have not been robbed of my youth prematurely as so many others were.
All this to say, I have a closet full of button-ups because they’re easy to wear without a bra, yet they can provide great coverage when needed. It’s a very dynamic item of clothing. Button up at work, button down for your date after!
I would go as far as to say that the button-up is my desert island outfit. Like, just the shirt. I don’t need pants or anything. If it’s big enough to cover my bum, we’re in business.
Lately, the only issue I have with button-ups is boredom. It’s not you, it’s me! I swear. My little pea brain wants that excitement of something new. This explains why I have been so attracted to decorative closures on shirts lately.
I am always trying to find slightly different silhouettes or coverage than a standard oxford while maintaining the essence of an overshirt. I particularly enjoy when the closures are loose, allowing you to show some extra skin or a pop of color from an undershirt.
But let’s give credit where it's due. Many of these embellishments come from Eastern fashion, and their appropriation by the West has deep colonial roots. I think (I hope) true appreciation requires respectful acknowledgment and equitable exchange, recognizing the origins and meanings behind these fashion elements.
Standing collars and pankou closures date back to the Ming Dynasty (the late 15th century) and the Qing Dynasty respectfully. The closures in particular were designed to be both beautiful and functional.1 The Westernized version, frog fastenings, likely resulted from Napoleon’s Eastern “campaigns”, making their way into French military uniforms, then spread throughout Europe in various forms. They eventually became fully decorative – a status symbol – rather than practical.2
I'm not a fashion historian (obviously), but I am fascinated by how a small detail can carry such rich history. The boredom of my flat chest and plain old button-ups led me down a crazy rabbit hole of Chinese fashion history, French military uniforms, and the long-tail effects of Orientalism.
Honestly, I feel confused after all this research. Fashion is complex and entwined with divisive matters such as politics, religion, colonialism, capitalism, patriarchy, and so much more. But I suppose it all feeds into why I find clothing so compelling. It’s so much more than bits of fabric covering our skin.
In an attempt to be as thoughtful (but still fun) as possible with my shirt selections, I followed these principles:
It’s treated as fashion and not a costume
It’s not hyper sexualized
It’s not trying to flaunt some sort of exotic otherness
So, after all that, which is the hardest button to button? Is it accepting your earthly body with compassion? Surviving a desert island with one shirt? Dealing with monotony? Avoiding cultural appropriation while dressing? Yikes...
Vintage California Designs Dorothy Samuel Linen Toggle 70s
Let’s kick it off with this lovely linen toggle up. Very California, but has the Eastern nod with standing collar and wooden toggles. I’m seeing farmers market, wide brimmed hat, and baggy cut-off jean shorts.
VTG Karen Kwong Black Tunic Toggle Buttons
This top is so elegant. It’s got the more ornate pankou closures which became popular for women’s robes around the 1890s. I could see pairing it with cool patterned pants or high waisted shorts. I would also wear it as a light layer over something strapless.
Xiao Blouse Jacket Red Black Toggle 100% Linen
The contrast seams along the edges and pockets are what make this top for me. But the modern oversized pankou closures are truly the cherry on top.
Annie Carson Crinkled Silk Toggle-Button Up Vest
These toggles are so intense! Like horns on this dainty little top. Again, the contrast of the aggressive toggles against the delicate silk is what makes this top feel less ordinary.
Indigo Blue Shirt Bamboo Toggles
This is a summertime shirt to be worn only while having a good time, preferably by some body of water. You almost don’t even notice the fastener side of the toggle which honestly probably don’t even work. Let this one hang open.
satiny ivory frog toggle mandarin collar tunic
I think my mom had this shirt in the 90s. I sometimes have a hard time wearing a long shirt untucked, but this one has high front and side slits which makes it feel less boxy and encompassing.
White Cotton Blouse Button Up Mandarin Collar
I’ve had my eye on this one forever but know this sleeve doesn’t work for me because of my aforementioned shoulders. It’s got the standup collar but a funny combo of button toggles and embroidery. Lots happening there, but this top with vintage Levis would be great.
J Jill Women's Chambray Toggle Knot Button up
Y’all, J Jill has SO MANY upright collar/ toggle shirts out there it’s crazy, and maybe a little weird? I think it might have just been a big 90s fad, but this chambray toggle button up speaks to me.
Pink 100% Linen Button-Up Shirt Frog Buttons
The way these fasteners are scrunched into the middle of the shirt is exactly why I am so attracted to this style! It lets you have some room up top and bottom to play around with extra skin or reveal another layer. So fun.
Vintage Silk Hand Embroidered Blouse
Fancy. If you can wear silk and not sweat like a monster, I believe this might be for you. If I were dainty and not sweaty I would wear this with old Levis, again (surprise, surprise).
VTG Misho 100% Silk Toggle Button Jacket
Pretty, pretty chartreuse! I personally believe this is a timeless color (even though it’s having a moment). This jacket screams easy elegance, but with a cool edge.
Vintage Clementine Womens Denim Top Frog Closure
Oh chambray, I cannot resist you! This is exactly the type of freshness I want in my button-ups. A little detail on cuffs, collars, and clasps.
Silk Mandarin Collar Floral Blouse
This is a top for a sunny backyard bbq. It reminds me of a summer fruit salad and everyone will want to come talk to you. It just puts a smile on my face, and that’s all I could ever hope for from a shirt.
1960s Mandarin Collar Crochet Blouse
This is a hand-made beauty from China. It’s 100% cotton and truly a work of art. Something like this feels more special to me than contemporary crocheted top, and it’s actually affordable.
80s Button Up Pocket Shirt Colorful Rainbow
This reminds me of a State The Label top I have with multi-colored buttons. I want to believe it’s inspired by this top. Although, I think the button toggle fasteners on this are absolutely inspired.
Wow, that felt serious! I guess it can’t always be hot dogs around here. Hopefully that’s a good thing.
XO - Kellyn (a.k.a. Best Friends) 🤓
This is a whole Articles of Interest episode in one newsletter!
Also you know me and my love of buttons/button ups/anything button related
I looooove that Clementine Chambray shirt. I need to compare the measurements listed to me to see just how large that would be on me. Trying to envision a really oversized look in my head but it may just be too much.